Goldschmied’s know-how leads to fresh way of working with wool
Adriano Goldschmied’s autumn-winter 2027 collection for Bangladesh-based mill Pioneer Denim introduces a new 30% wool, 70% cotton blend for denim that uses wool in the warp, rather than the traditional weft.
This blend allows the garments to be washed at standard cotton temperatures without felting, solving the primary maintenance issue usually associated with wool-denim hybrids, and means the fibre’s natural texture is prominent rather than being "lost" within the structure.
The collection uses a rope-dying technique for the wool-cotton warp and introduces sulfur-dyed colours, inspired by the Highlands and traditional tartan patterns. The dye technique creates an authentic vintage aesthetic, allowing the garment to age with the character of classic denim.
The finishing process uses Soko’s Hydrogel technology, which acts as a protective cushion around the fibres, ensuring a clean finish while protecting the integrity of the wool during the wash cycle.
Christian Reca, Pioneer’s marketing and merchandising manager, said: “This collection is not just a stylistic exercise in ‘Highland’ aesthetics; it is a structural evolution. By combining warp-integrated wool with protective hydrogel finishing, Adriano has created a ‘Wool Denim’ that is sophisticated, easy to care for and environmentally conscious.”
Pioneer organised a tribute to Mr Goldschmied to celebrate his life on the eve of the recent Kingpins Amsterdam show.
