PG plays with recycled-indigo flock and wool-inspired capsules
Flock dyed with indigo from waste yarns that fades like denim is among the novelties in ISKO Luxury by PG’s HA (Human Art) collection, billed as celebrating “manual mastery” in a world seeing an increasing use of artificial intelligence.
Luxury Beyond Convention (pictured) is a collaboration with chemicals company Soko, where the indigo is recycled, used in the flock and then treated with Soko’s chemistries, Hydrogel, Lumia and Frost.
The wider collection is divided into eight capsules, designed to offer inspiration to brands and to showcase how weaving, blends, prints and flocking can make products stand out in a sector dominated by variations of blue.
Mr Gnutti said: “Artificial intelligence can generate beautiful, sophisticated and highly realist images. However, with this collection, I wanted to return to pen and paper – to regain control by returning to pure technique and the passion that only a human being can infuse into a project.”
For the ‘Indigo Atelier’ capsule – which includes the Soko collaboration – the elegance of heritage tailoring is translated into indigo flock surfaces, using regenerative cotton.
‘Noir Aristocrat’, uses black as a “language of power and refinement”. “I played with washing inside out to move the overdyed black, leopard prints and textures,” Mr Gnutti tells us.
‘Heritage Black/Black’ includes natural textures and classic constructions with overdyed surfaces. “Everything is very clean, not too strong for this season," he explains. "For the following season, we will see very clean blacks but super-destroyed indigos.”
'Chenille Denim' in indigo or ecru offers a softness with new constructions that enhance luminosity and versatility. It also features digital prints, which can be customised according to the customer.
For ‘Fur Denim’, Mr Gnutti worked with a flocking supplier to create a long flock fibre, which gives a pony-hair effect but that can be washed or abraded to add dimension.
‘Spectrum’ is a range of fabrics that include warp ecrus and coloured wefts, or multicoloured neps to add interest.
‘Noble Denim’ blends wool and cotton. “I was inspired by the wool I saw at Pitti Uomo,” Mr Gnutti says. “I have translated that classic world into denim. It is soft on the skin and is thermoregulating. Wool will be a must for next season.”
‘Inner Print’, continues the theme from last season, with prints on the inside of jackets and seen through turn-ups on the jeans.
Read about Mr Gnutti’s inspirations in Inside Denim’s Clocking On feature.
