Addressing a growing demand for colour in the denim segment, Pakistan-based mill Kassim has worked with dye technology provider CleanKore to transfer its process from indigo and black to colour.

The patented technique means dye does not penetrate to the core of the yarn, meaning worn effects can be achieved faster, reducing chemicals, water and energy. It also removes the need for PP spray and laser boosters, meaning overall, the process "can be cost neutral”, according to the company.

Launched in 2018, CleanKore technology has been adopted by more than 30 mills around the world, with a black version launched in 2022.

Its mill partner, Kassim Denim, saw the benefits, and worked for a year to test the process with coloured dyes. At the Kingpins Amsterdam show, it launched five colours on five fabric bases, from raw to high stretch.

“What's exciting is that it keeps the character of the fabric but the colour chips off like indigo, so it gives an authentic worn feel and the high-lows you expect from a denim,” explained Elizabeth Harris, Kassim's product development manager. “Because it's done in fabric form, it is more consistent: Kassim can control by the roll, instead of having a wide shade range that you would find with garment dyeing. You can also use the same base cloth for indigo, black and colour.”

CleanKore’s director of product development and design, Julie Colantuono, introduced the process while she was senior manager for denim at US retailer Kohl’s, noting that it reduced the cycle time and resulted in fewer fabric issues. “Mills don’t have to change their indigo or buy any new machinery,” she added. “They only pay CleanKore when it goes into production – it is free to trial.”

At the show, CleanKore also presented its partnership with HMS Stone, a pumice alternative that reduces sludge and waste, and which can be used in conjunction with the CleanKore process. The companies are undertaking joint trials at suppliers to produce more data on the savings, they said.

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